Italy by Rail and Ship: Apertivo! Milan Style

Apertivo!  Translated into American lingo, it’s basically happy hour but with a little twist.  In America, happy hour is known more for discounted drinks and sometimes some discounted food as well.  But here in Italy, apertivo is the big social time before dinner.  Normally starting anywhere around 6pm – 7pm and running until around 9:30pm or 10:00pm, the concept is pretty simple:  buy a drink and you get an unlimited buffet of finger foods.  Sometimes the waiters will bring the snack items to your table, such as bread, cheese, salami, olives and potato chips.  Other times there will be a spread of food set up inside the restaurant with things such as pasta salad or pasta with ragu sauce.  That’s pretty standard, and just enough to tide you over before the main dinner meal.

However, here in Milan apertivo is taken to another level!  For a cost of around ten Euro, you’ll get your drink all right, but you’ll also get a bountiful spread of food that can basically replace dinner.  And that’s what Lisa and I did for these last two nights, we just filled up on a buffet of pastas, salads, breads, fruits and more.  The magic hour is right around 6:30pm, when things aren’t quite super busy and we don’t have to compete with others for the food.  We walked past at least twenty restaurants and bars that offered some pretty great looking spreads — some better than others of course — and we were pretty happy with our choices, one of them recommended by the desk clerk at our hotel.  Yay for apertivo, Yummy!

Italy by Rail and Ship: Carbs Carbs Carbs Yeah-Ah

Coming up on the last 48 hours here in Italy.  Which means surviving against the onslaught of carbs.  Breakfast, lunch, dinner — all carbs.  I don’t want to sound like I’m complaining, but my body has definitely been less accepting of the constant barrage of carbohydrates in my diet with not enough fruit, veggies, dairy and protein.  I hasn’t helped that over the past 72 hours I have been battling a cold, complete with stupid constant coughing and a sensitive throat with the hurts-when-I-swallow action.  Because of my constant coughing, my sleep has been sporadic and incomplete these last two nights.  My body is craving more nutrients, but all I’ve fed it are croissants, cereals, sweet breads, pasta, focaccia bread, and of course pizza.  I have been able to get some more fruit into my system, but it hasn’t been enough.  I’m actually looking forward to going home, so I can have more control of what I eat and balance my meals much better than I have been lately.  Each Italian city has specialty dishes to try, so Lisa and I do our best to sample them.  But having different versions of pasta with different versions of sauces can get tiresome, and I think I’ve hit my limit.  The good news is that we have hit upon the magic dinner hour of “apertivo” — and here in Milan, they take it to another level.  Stay tuned!

Breakfast … let’s see, croissants, sweet breads, rolls, toast, even pancakes! Carb heaven!

Italy by Rail and Ship: Riomaggiore Morning Meanderings

We spent our last morning in Riomaggiore taking a stroll around the village, which meant many steps going up and going down and climbing uphill and going downhill.  Even at 8am with the sun barely out, we got sweaty and hot in a very short while of just walking around.  But once again it was all worth it.  Such a beautiful place and there is just so much more to explore but so little time!

Italy by Rail and Ship: Bathrooms

Some observations over the last month regarding bathrooms:

Many are labeled as toilets, or “WC.”  Officially, it is bagno in Italian, but we haven’t really seen this.

Bathrooms are not free.  You must be a paying customer of a restaurant or bar or cafe, or museum or paid attraction to qualify.  Public toilets cost money — typically .50 euros, and as high as 1 euro in Cinque Terre.  Oftentimes the public toilets are manned by a Bathroom Overlord.  He or she will keep the restrooms clean, point you to the stall that is available and enforce the law of payment.  If there is no person to take your money, then you will find a machine that you put your money into and in return you shall receive a token.  This token will allow you through the turnstile to access the toilet.

Line up for the public WC in San Gimignano. Two bathroom stalls. One person leaves, one person can enter the turnstile. Cost: .50 euro, which we paid for.

The fake free toilet:  this happens when you think you’ve scored a free public toilet, only to find that you must have an access code to open it.

Toilet seats are not guaranteed.  Actually, it is about 50/50.  Half the time there will be a toilet seat, the other time there will just be the rim of the toilet base.  We have been fortunate that in all of our hotel stays, there has always been a toilet set.  However, this evening Lisa was horrified to find out that our seat was not bolted down to the rim, and she found out the hard way as it basically fell down and to the side when she tried to sit on it.  Hotel maintenance eventually came to the room to affix the seat.  What is curious though is the fact that the housekeeper actually put one of those paper strips across the seat lid that has “Sanitized” printed on it.  Apparently she did not realize that the seat wobbled and was just sitting there without any bolts or anything.  Then how did she put that paper around it?

Some public toilets don’t even have proper toilets — it’s just a hole in the ground with an outline of where to position your feet.  This is for both men and women.  And this is to complete bathroom process #1 and #2.

Bidets are very common in hotel rooms, but not in public toilet facilities.

For many public bathrooms in a restaurant or museum, there are unisex washrooms.  In other words, you enter through one door that features two or three sinks.  And beyond these will be a door marked for men and one for women, which will lead to the respective gender toilets.

I am too cheap to pay for a public bathroom.  I am just so conditioned as an American to expect free bathrooms for public use.  But yes, I know that I am not in America and it is just something that has been an adjustment.  And that adjustment is this:  whenever I have a “free toilet,” I am going to use it.  I paid $4 for this Coke?  Well for sure I am going to seek out your restroom and use it!

Two points about toilet paper.  #1 – they mostly come in rolls, though there were a few places that the paper dispenser is pre-cut so you only get two sheets at a time.  #2 – you really aren’t supposed to throw toilet tissue in the toilet to flush, as many public waste water facilities can’t really process all of that paper garbage.  That is why there is a waste basket next to the toilet — it is for your paper waste.  This is especially true if there is a bidet — after all, it is there to help wash out your anus so there really shouldn’t be a need for toilet paper!  So, bottom line, throw out your used toilet paper into the available waste basket and do not flush it down the toilet!

Ready, aim, fire! Nice view from the window!

 

Italy by Rail and Ship: Cinque Terre

We’ve spent the last two days here in Cinque Terre, “the five towns,” enjoying incredible scenery, delicious food, and demanding hikes up and down and down and up the cliff side trails that connects them all together.  Despite the searing hot days, blood sucking bugs and being dirty and grimy at the end of each day, it has been so worth it.  This photo is of Manarola, half an hour after sunset.